The FFR ordering process is very easy and straightforward, but let's go through every option in detail.
Note: For each option, be sure to watch the FFR videos on their
ordering page!
This is also just a guide. Be sure to check the FFR website for updated options.
Chassis configuration
This is personal preference.
Engine/Transmission mount package
Clutch package
If you want simplicity, low cost, and easy service, choose the manual cable clutch.
If you want the smoothest pedal feel, especially with a big-power engine or tight header routing, choose the hydraulic kit.
Exhaust system
This depends on your engine selection.
Side exhaust
If you care about longevity & low maintenance, go with stainless, especially if this is a long-term build or you’re in a humid environment.
If budget is tighter or you like a raw vintage look, the bare steel is totally viable, but be sure to protect them.
If you're looking to "blackout" the exhaust, uncoated/bare steel is a good option.
Rear suspension
If you plan to do track days or performance driving with a powerful engine, the 3-link is a good choice: strength, tuning potential, and traction are excellent. If you want a strong but simpler upgraded solid-axle setup, and you’re okay with a live-axle ride but want better geometry and stronger components, the 4-link is a good choice. If your build is more street-oriented and you want a premium ride feel, then the IRS is a great option.
Front & rear shocks
This depends on your rear suspension selection (above).
Rear axle
This depends on your rear suspension selection (above).
Driveshaft
This depends on your engine selection.
Steering system
For a street/cruiser/daily‑driver build, power steering is recommended. The ease of steering at low speeds is a huge benefit.
For a track-focused or performance‑driven build, a manual rack is very attractive since the feedback is sharper.
Gauges
These are personal preference based on the designs.
Seats
These are personal preference based on the designs.
Chassis coating
If you plan to keep your build relatively stock (or with modest modifications), powdering is a great idea. The protection, durability, and clean look are very compelling, and you get less to worry about later.
If you plan to heavily modify the frame (extra welds, bespoke mounts, custom bracing), choose the bare chassis. That way, you or your fabricator can do all the modifications first, then have it coated afterwards.
Rollbar
These are personal preference. Do you want 1 or 2 rollbars? And do you want them powder coated or chrome?
Front brakes
If your build is mostly street or occasional spirited driving, and you’re more concerned with weight, responsiveness, and good pedal feel, go with the 11″ Twin-Piston setup. This is also the budget-conscious option.
If your build is higher power, or you plan on doing aggressive driving or track days, or you just want stronger brakes and better fade resistance, go with the 12.88″ Wilwood kit.
Rear brakes
If your build is street-focused, moderate horsepower, and you don’t expect aggressive track braking, the 11.65″ Solid Axle Kit is a solid option if you have a live rear axle...or 11.65″ IRS Kit if you’re running IRS and want a compact, reliable rear brake.
If you want a good balance of performance and appearance, the 12.19″ Solid-Axle Wilwood Kit is a solid option.
If your build is high-performance, track-capable, or very powerful, or you want top-tier performance, the 12.88″ IRS Wilwood Kit is a solid option.
Be sure to take into consideration wheel clearance and weight.
Set of wheels
These are personal preference based on the designs and sizes.
Steering wheel
These are personal preference based on the designs.
Body cut-out
The traced cut-outs will help you determine where to cut out later. This is a good option for builders who want custom positioning or unique modifications. Builds where side pipes, lights, or rollbar placement are not standard or are being modified for aftermarket parts.
The actual cut-outs will help builders who want a quicker, more “plug-and-play” build. This is also for builds with standard side pipes, gas cap, lights, and rollbars.
Dash
For a custom gauge setup and maximum flexibility, the blank aluminum dash is a good choice.
For a classic 427 layout and minimal cutting, the pre-cut aluminum dash is a good choice.
For a finished dash with a built-in glovebox, the vinyl dash is a good choice.
If you like the modern, sporty look, the carbon fiber dash could be a good choice.
Seat harness
For street or occasional spirited driving, the 2" harness is a good choice. They're more comfortable.
For a track-oriented build or more vintage look, the 3" harness is a good choice. Wider straps spread forces better and feel more secure.
Side mirror
These are personal preference based on the designs.
Hood scoop
These are personal preference. Do you want the scoop painted or carbon fiber?
No Cost Options
These are all free, so why not order them?!? But seriously, they're all great options worth getting.
- Wind Wings: Recommend for most street or weekend‑cruise Roadster builds. The reduction in buffeting and rain deflection makes open-top driving much more pleasant. If your build is track-only / performance-focused, the wings are less critical (but still useful for driver comfort if doing long sessions / testing). If you’re going for a very clean, minimalist look and don’t care about wind noise, you could skip them, but you're likely to regret it on longer open‑windshield drives.
- Trunk Gas Strut Kit: If you plan to use the trunk regularly and want the trunk lid to feel more refined and safe, get the struts. If your build is very minimalist or lightweight, then you could skip it, understanding you’ll likely be propping or risking the lid slamming.
- Brake Duct Wire Mesh Set: If you plan to do track days, spirited driving, or want real brake cooling, order the mesh set. It will help protect and improve your brake duct inlets. If your build is mostly cruising and you don’t expect to get the brakes extremely hot, you can probably skip it without any major downsides unless you want it purely for aesthetics.
- 4-Post Battery Cutoff Switch: If your build is for street user, I recommend the switch for safety and anti‑theft benefits. If your build is performance‑oriented or track-capable, I highly recommend the switch. The ability to kill the alternator + battery circuit is very valuable for safety, especially in high-power or experimental builds. In all cases, a battery cut off is beneficial to help prevent battery drain when parked for extended periods.
- Seat Track Kit, Driver Side: This is recommended unless you are absolutely sure you'll never need to adjust seat position.
- Assembled Side Louver Set: If you want better cooling for the engine bay or the aesthetic is important to you (you want that classic louvered “racer/hot-rod” side look), order these. If you're doing a very minimalist build or don’t expect under-hood heat to be a major problem, then they're not important.
Other Options
- Sun Visors: If you plan to drive on the street, especially during sunny days or on open highways. They also give a more “complete/classic” interior look. If your build is purely track‑oriented (you wear a helmet or don’t care about sun), these aren't necessary.
- Vintage Wiper Kit: You should consider ordering the vintage wiper kit if you plan to drive on the street and want working wipers for safety. You can skip this option if your build is very track-focused, you only drive when it doesn't rain, weight reduction is a high priority, or you want a very minimalist look.
- Mk5 Polished Stainless Steel Bumper Kit: Recommended for most street and show‑oriented builds, especially if legally required for inspection and registration. The durability, style, and value make it a strong option, especially for long-term ownership. You can skip if weight savings and performance (and every ounce matters) are important, or you have a tight budget.
- Mk5 Over-Rider Bumper Kit: Recommended for street and show-oriented builds where aesthetics and "classic roadster style" matter, or you want a little more protection than just bare quick-jacks or no bumper. You could skip them if your build is track-only or very lightweight and you want to minimize non-structural weight.
- Gen 3 & 4 Coyote Installation Kit: Recommended for builds with a Coyote engine.
- Gen 3 & 4 Coyote Carbon Fiber Engine Cover: A personal preference.
- 7.3L Godzilla Installation Kit: Recommended for builds with a Godzilla engine.
- A/C-Heater-Defroster Kit: You should consider this option if you plan to drive the car a lot on the street, live in a hot climate, or want a more practical car. You can skip this option if your build is very track-oriented or "weight minimal" and performance matters more than comfort or you live in a mild climate and don't mind driving without A/C much of the year.
- A/C - Heater-Defroster for 5.0L Coyote: (same as above, but for builds with Coyote engines)
- Oil Cooler Kit: Recommended if you're building for performance or track car, or have a powerful engine. It's good insurance and helps keep oil temps in check, especially under sustained load. You can skip it if your build is a more relaxed street car. This can always be added later.
- Roadster Indoor Car Cover, Blue: A personal preference.
- Rollbar Grommet Set, Driver/Passenger Side: These are recommended if you want a clean, finished look where the rollbar enters the body.
- IRS Front & Rear Swaybar: If your build is a performance/handling‑oriented build (track days, spirited driving), the IRS Front + Rear sway bar kit is a great option. It's worth the extra cost and complexity. If your build is more street cruiser, it's still a good option, but you could maybe get away with just one (front or rear) if you're trying to save cost. If weight or budget is very tight, you could defer the rear bar (or both) and add later, but know that may compromise the handling balance somewhat.
- Logo Floor Mats: A personal preference.
- Diamond Stitch Door Panel Set: A personal preference.
- Brake Reservoir Kit: A separate kit might be beneficial for those who want separate reservoirs for hydraulic clutch and brake systems, or for track driving where extra capacity and fluid volume is a priority.
- Hydraulic Clutch Throw-Out Bearing: You'll want this option if you're ordering a hydraulic clutch system.
- EFI In-Tank Fuel System: If you are planning to run EFI, this is a good option. It’s the most reliable way to supply consistent fuel, especially under performance / load, and it’s well-supported. If your build is lower power or street-only, it's still a good choice, because in-tank systems are more reliable and produce less vapor lock risk. If budget is very tight, you could run a simpler external pump + regulator, but you lose some reliability and will need to carefully route and protect fuel lines.
- Speedhut Vintage Oil Temperature Gauge: Some poeple like to swap the clock for an oil temp gauge.
- Remote Brake Booster: You should strongly consider ordering the remote brake booster if you want power-assisted braking for better pedal feel and less effort. If budget is a concern or your build is very lightweight and you want a pure/mechanical feel, you can skip this option.